万能アイテム!ボーダーカットソーの選び方:首元のパイピング

ボーダーカットソーには、さまざまなデザインがあり、ボーダーの幅や色の組み合わせ、生地の厚みなどの素材面の違いであったり、長袖や半袖などの袖の長さ、丸首やボートネックなどの襟ぐりの形などもあります。

襟ぐりでは、形の他にも縫製上の仕様の違いもあり、大きく分けると見返し仕様と、パイピング仕様とがあります。

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カットソーの衿元パイピングとは

ボーダーカットソーの素材はニットであり、一本の糸を編み込んで、一枚の生地となっています。そのために、洋服を作成するために生地をカットした部分は、そのままにしておけば、糸がほつれてしまうことになるので、ほつれ止めの処理が必要になります。

見返し仕様では、襟ぐりの出来上がり線から5㎝ほどの幅で、平行にかたどった布を裏側につけるという方法で、布端の処理を行います。

見返し仕様であれば、年配の女性でもカジュアルすぎず、自然に着こなすことができるような、デザインに仕上げることができます。

一方、パイピング仕様になると、首元にぐっとカジュアルな雰囲気を出すことができます。別に裁断された、ひも状の布を4つ折りにして、布端を包むようにして処理していくことになります。

このパイピング布は、土台となる生地と同じものが、使用されることもあるのですが、アクセントとして別の色が使用されたり、別の素材が使用されることもあります。

襟元は、他の人からも見られやすい部分でもあるので、1㎝ほどの幅のパイピングであっても、大きく印象を変えることができるデザインともなります。

ボーダーカットソー選びでは、この首元のパイピングにも、着目して選んでみるといいでしょう。

素材の違いでデザインを楽しんでみよう

ボーダーカットソーの生地は、横方向に縞の柄が入っていて、縦方向にはそれほど伸縮性がないものの、横方向には大きく伸縮をするという特徴を持っています。

ボーダーカットソーの首元のパイピングでは、着脱をするときに、襟ぐりが伸びる動きに合わせて、ある程度の伸縮性が求められることになるので、共布の場合には、横方向に長く裁断をして作られることになります。

つまり、襟ぐりの出来上がり線に合わせて平行に、ボーダーのラインが入ったパイピングに仕上がることになります。

ボーダーのカットソーでは、共布を使用される以外にも、別の布が使用されることも多いものです。土台となる生地が厚手であれば、肌寒い時期にも寒すぎて見えることなく保温性にも優れ、大人の女性が着ても、高品質にみせることができ、女性が一枚だけで着用しても、下着が透ける心配もありません。

しかし、共布でパイピング始末をするとなれば、土台の布に4つ折りをしたパイピング生地が乗ることになるので、結果として5枚の布が重なることになります。厚手の生地になると、襟ぐりの端に更なる厚みを持たせてしまうことになり、カジュアルな雰囲気を出すデザインとさせることもできますが、一般的には、襟ぐりが目立って安っぽくも見えてしまい、デコルテラインを美しく見せることができません。

別布を使用すれば、土台の布よりも薄手の素材を使用することによって、襟ぐりラインを美しく見せることができます。

薄手のニット素材が使用されることも多いのですが、光沢のあるサテンなど、変化のある素材で上品な雰囲気に仕上げられることもあります。

色の違いでデザインを楽しんでみよう

ボーダーのカットソーでは、土台となる生地が柄物になることから、襟ぐりは無地の布が使用されることも多いものです。

一般的には、二つの色を交互に横方向の縞模様として繰り返した柄になり、白に別色が配置されているというパターンもよく見られます。しかし、色物と色物を組み合わせたものもあります。

また、複数の色を組み合わせた、マルチボーダーと呼ばれるものもあります。

使用されている色のうち、どれか一つの色をピックアップして、パイピングが施されるというのが一般的ですが、アクセントとして全く別の色が使用されることもあります。

土台の生地が紺と白であっても、パイピングには対称的な色ともなる赤や黄色などが使用されたデザインもあります。

襟元のデザインは、女性であればアクセサリーやスカーフなどのファッション小物を取り入れることで、デザインに変化をつけることもできますが、男性の場合には、アクセサリーは身に着けずに、ファッションアイテムの数は少なくシンプルな着こなしを好む人も多いものです。

襟ぐりにアクセサリーを持ってこなくても、襟ぐりパイピングが印象的であれば、顔を引き立てることができるデザインポイントにすることができます。

暗い色が配色されたカットソーであっても、明るい色のパイピングが施されていれば、全体的なバランスも明るく見せることができたり、白い色であればさわやかさをプラスすることもできます。

また、花柄などの柄物をあえて配置しているデザインになれば、シンプルに見えがちなカットソーも、一着で個性的なコーディネートに見せることができます。

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