上品な印象!フォックスファーの特徴について

ファッション素材として、高い魅力を持つものにファーがあります。

中でも、フォックスは人気があり、高価なことでも知られています。

購入を検討する場合には、種類や保管方法、クリーニングの仕方などを理解しておく必要があり、適した取扱いをすることで、いつまでも綺麗な状態で使用することができます。

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ファーについて知っておきたいこと

ファーは、言葉の意味としては、哺乳動物の被毛のことをいいます。ファッション用語として用いられる場合には、毛皮のことを指し、広義では毛皮製品も含まれます。

一般的には、コートやショールなどの、毛皮製品に対して用いられることが多く、対象としてはキツネ、テン、イタチ、チンチラなどの毛皮獣があり、皮革製品も含めれば、水性系獣であるラッコ、カワウソ、ビーバー、アザラシなど、様々な種類があります。

毛皮への加工は、まず、剥いだ生皮から肉や脂肪を取り除き、中性洗剤や、ガソリンといった有機溶剤で脱脂を行います。

次に、なめしへと進み、ここでは、ミョウバンや食塩の混合溶液、塩基性クロム塩と食塩の混合溶液といった、なめし剤に漬込むことで、防腐処理が行われます。

因みに、毛皮のなめしは、ドレッシングと呼ばれています。仕上げでは、柔軟性を良くするために皮繊維に油脂が加えられ、加水、揉みと延ばし、乾燥の3つが繰り返されます。

最後の行程は、剪毛機によって、毛並みを整えることがあり、製品によっては染色が施されます。

毛皮は、古くは奈良時代に中国から伝わったとされており、温暖な気候のために、本来の機能である防寒具の役割としてではなく、むしろ、権力を象徴するものとして、存在していたと言われています。

一般的に使われ始めたのは明治以降であり、近年においては、ミンクの毛皮のコートなどが広く知られています。

毛皮は、虫食いやカビなど手入れや保管に手間がかかる反面、上手に扱うことで、世代を超えて愛用することができます。

同じ種類でも、1枚ごとに表情が異なるなど希少性が高く、最近では購入がしやすい製品も、数多く販売されています。

フォックスファーの種類について

フォックスファーには、流通が多いものとして、シルバー、ブルー、レッドの3種類があり、中でもブルーは最も産出量が多い種類です。

フォックスファーのメリットは、1つに、長毛(刺毛)と、やや長い綿毛による保温性の高さがあります。また、ボリューム感があること、耐久性に優れることもメリットとなります。

反面、湿気や紫外線、熱等に弱く、変色や硬化しやすいことがあり、虫喰いされやすいことや、香水による染みや、変色が起こりやすいなどの難点があります。

種類による特徴は、まず、シルバーは赤キツネが突然変異をした銀キツネを指し、現在、全て養殖されています。

毛丈は長毛に属し、刺し毛は長く銀色と黒色があり、上品な雰囲気を持つ種類です。銀と黒の割合で雰囲気は変わり、コントラストが鮮明であるほど、良質とされています。

因みに、染色をすると銀色だけが染まり、黒い部分はそのまま残ります。

ブルーは青狐を指し、ほとんどがスカンジナビア産となります。3種類の中では、最もシルキーな毛質を持ち、自然色がグレー系のために多くの色を、表現できるという特徴を持ちます。

コートに合わせて染色や、トリミングが行われることが多く、青が薄いものはシャドーフォックスと呼ばれています。

レッドは、赤キツネを指し、南米を除く全大陸に生息しているものの、生息地によって品質が大きく異なるという特徴があります。

鮮明で赤みを帯びたオレンジ色のものが良質とされており、中でもカムチャッカ産のものは赤色が強く、ファイヤーフォックスと呼ばれています。

知っておきたい手入れ方法について

ファーは、日頃の手入れが重要な作業となります。まず、洗濯をする場合には、毛皮専門のクリーニング店に依頼をする必要があります。

汚れが付いた状態では、虫害やカビの原因になり、依頼は、ノウハウのある専門店を選ぶことがポイントになります。

保管をする際には、ビニールを外してよく風を通す必要があり、10℃以下の低温や50%程度の湿度を保つことに、心掛ける必要があります。

また、防虫剤の使用や紫外線に当てないこと、必ずハンガーを使用して吊るすことも大切になります。

日常的な手入れでは、外出から帰ったら、最初に全体を軽くたたいて、ホコリを落とすようにします。

汚れが目立つようであれば、ぬるま湯で固く絞ったタオルで、毛の流れに沿って毛先を拭き、その後、風通しの良い場所で陰干しをした後に、ハンガーに掛け収納をします。

注意点としては、汚れを落とす際に、ベンジンやシャンプーなどは使用しないこと、乾かす場合にもドライヤーや暖房器具を使用しないことがあります。

ブラッシングも、毛の向きに沿って軽くする必要があり、あまり頻繁に行ってしまうと、毛が傷む原因になります。

ファーは、毛の部分が濡れたとしても、布で手早く拭き取れば問題はありません。

ただし、皮まで濡れてしまうと、乾いた後で硬化や縮んでしまうことがあり、この場合、元に戻すことができなくなります。

着用では、ストーブの熱やタバコ、香水などの化粧品、雨や雪などに注意をする必要があり、特に熱の場合では、毛がチリチリになってしまうこともあります。

最後に

フォックスファーは、大きな存在感を持つ素材です。

中でも、シルバーフォックスは、その上品さから高い人気があります。良い状態を保つためには、手入れが重要になり、購入の際には、方法等を十分に理解をしておくことが大切になります。

また、適切に行うことで、綺麗な状態を保つことができ、長く使用することができます。

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