レースアップのビスチェは90年代を感じさせるトレンドアイテム

20代には新鮮なトレンドアイテムでも、大人の女性達には懐かしいビスチェ。

実はこのビスチェ、フランス語(bustier)で肩のない、ウエストまである丈の長いブラジャーのことを意味します。19世紀から20世紀初期まで、ドレスを着ていた時代に下着として着られていたものでした。

コルセットの肩紐なしバージョンで、ウエストを絞るためにレースアップになっており、女性は気絶するほど紐を絞って、ウエストの細さを強調したと言われています。

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トレンドのビスチェは90年代のヒットアイテム

現在も、正しいビスチェとしての着られているのはウエディングドレスの時です。昔ほど締め付けるわけではありませんが、レースで作られたビスチェは、ドレスをきれいに着るのに必要なアンダーウェアです。

そんなビスチェが、表舞台に出てきたのは90年代となります。ランジェリースタイルを外出着にすることが、コレクションデザイナーにより発表され、その流れでビスチェもトレンドになりました。

もっとも有名なデザイナーはジャン・ポール・ゴルチェです。

当時ゴルチェは、常識や既成概念を破るさまざまなスタイルを発表していた、時代の寵児でした。ビスチェもゴルチェが発表したもののひとつで、ゴルチェのアイコンともいえるアイテムです。

さまざまなバリエーションの、ビスチェが発表されています。

また、昨年からトレンドになっている肩出しファッションの「ベアトップ」も、ゴルチェが90年代初期に発表したスタイルです。

ランジェリールックは、女性の解放や既成概念の破壊など、パンクやロックのイメージとも繋がっていて、マドンナがコンサートでゴルチェデザインのビスチェを着たこともあります。

レースアップは70年代から何度もトレンドになっているディテール

レースアップのディテールで一番有名なのは、サンローランのサファリルックです。おヘソの下まで開いたレースアップのミニワンピは、とても有名です。

銃を肩に背負ったモデルの写真を、見たことがある人も多いはずです。サンローランも、70年代に次々と既成概念や常識を破って女性のファッションを解放した人です。

レースアップというディテール自体は、ファスナーやストレッチ素材がなかった時代に、より体にフィットさせるために使われた、技術が先行したテクニカルなディテールです。

体にフィットさせる必要のあるもの、ランジェリーやブーツなどの機能を高めるために使われてきました。

そんなテクニカルな必要から生まれたディテールが、ファッションの要素として取り上げられたのが、70年代のサンローランのサファリルックなのです。

そして90年代にも、レースアップは流行します。

これもやはり、ゴルチェのデザインのが有名で、Gジャンのフロントや前身頃の切替部分、ジャケットの背中などに使われました。ゴルチェのもうひとつの、アイコンディテールと言っても良いでしょう。

既にその頃には「締め付ける」という本来の機能からは、離れた使われ方をしています。

そして、現在。

またまたレースアップが流行の兆しです。カットソーやニットなどにも使われたり、紐自体が太くなっていたり、よりカジュアルにアレンジされた、現代的なデザインのレースアップとなっています。

90年代には、ハードで強いイメージと合わせてセクシー感があったのですが、現代ではセクシーというイメージからは、遠い使われ方をしています。

洋服がシンプルになってきている今、ちょうど良いポイントディテールという感じの使われ方です。

今年らしくレースアップのビスチェを着るコツ

歴史を紐解くと、ランジェリースタイルのアウター化やパンク、女性の解放、マドンナなど、セクシーで不良っぽい着方がされてきたレースアップのビスチェですが、現代は90年代の雰囲気を出しつつも、ややセクシー程度で止めておくのが今っぽいコーデとしては重要なポイント。

まず、基本はセクシー感を出しすぎず、普段使いで着られるようにすることです。

昨年から流行のTシャツに、キャミソールを合わせるコーデのように、ビスチェを肌に直接着ずに、インナーにTシャツやタンクトップを合わせた、レイヤードコーデにして着るのがおススメです。

インナーのカラーは、主張しすぎない白や黒が合わせやすいでしょう。ビスチェは肩紐がないものなので、バスト部分でぴったりフィットさせて着ます。ゆるくて脱げそうなんてことにならないように、必ず試着しましょう。

また、インナーも体にフィットしたボディのものを選ぶことが重要です。フィットしてないインナーだと、ビスチェで締めた部分がだぶついたり、シワがギャザーのように寄ったりして、もっさりした感じになってしまいます。

レイヤードインナーがフィットしていれば、すっきりカッコよく見えます。ポリウレタンが入ったカットソーや、綿100%でもフィットしたシルエットのものを選びましょう。

インナーの衿の開き具合と、ビスチェとのバランスも要チェックです。

インナーが見える面積が大きくなり過ぎても、少なすぎてもおかしなバランスになるので、レイヤードした時にバランスを確認してみることも大事です。

ボトムは、90年代ならミニのタイトやショートパンツを合わせたりしましたが、今年はワイドパンツやロングスカートを合わせるほうが、さりげなく普段着っぽく着られるでしょう。

アウターはGジャンやパーカ、ライダースなどで、ハードな感じを取り入れれば、今っぽい90年代スタイルができあがります。

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